Siraya Tech Fast ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin 405nm UV-Curing Non-Brittle High Precision 3D Printing Liquid Standard Photopolymer Resin for LCD DLP 3D Printing(Grey, 1kg)

Ive used several bottles of Fast Grey resin and it works great. I bought a bottle of Creamy this time (after chatting with Siraya Tech customer support to make sure it would work with the same printers settings as Grey) because Creamy was several dollars cheaper. Big mistake. Almost every print is failing, even when I go back and add extra supports. Update: Someone on Discord told me to try adding exposure time for Creamy; I increased the exposure for the non-base layers by 0.4 seconds and its working now. Im not sure yet how I like the Creamy resin, but thought I should come change the bad review I gave it.

Most good prints from their resin. Ive been printing well under the recommend temperatures so I cant blame the resin(also pretty new to printing). The detail have been nice and Ive dropped cured minatures before with mostly no breaks minus sometimes small thin things on the models.

I got the metal gray as it showed that it was darker than the navy gray, but mine is much lighter like the regular gray. Other than that, I’ve purchased quite a few colors of this specific resin and they’re all amazing quality, super high detail, and prints quick

Second time purchasing this resin, very easy to use

This has become my go to resin for doing any quick prototyping that I do. It prints amazingly fast and I have had no print failures pushing the print times that werent my own fault.

Siraya Tech Resin. Quite possibly the most popular hobbyist resin on the market. New to the tech & started using it right away and havent had any issues related to quality. We use it for doing prototypes that require flexibility with toughness. Im also finding its very easy to combine with other resins within the product line. Im even mixing it with titanium dioxide & its performing well! Ive yet to test the detail quality but I plan on it soon. Great quality resin for a little bit more money. Its well worth it imo.

as long as your printer is halfway dialed in this is resin is my go to for ease of printing with the fewest fails but things that help are keeping it warm and making sure its stirred well

Great type of resin to print wargaming minis

I got this resin for a very special project of mine that I wanted to have high quality detail when completed. However, I run a small business, and because of unforeseen circumstances, I had to use the resin for work. Well, it saved me from being in a pickle for certain, and I’m grateful for that. But I admit while the detailing seems pretty nice, I’m not too crazy about the coloring (probably since I’m used to using a competitor brand). Also it was pretty liquidy which surprised me in all honesty. Other than that, I do think it’s a pretty good resin, I would buy it again, and it really saved me in a pinch!

Im in the middle of an engineering project (basically a custom RC plane), and needed some small, precise parts that still need to take decently significant loads. Of course print quality and resolution is a more a matter of what printer you have, but I can say this stuff printed fantastically on my Photon Mono S with the settings recommended by Siraya Tech (you can find a spreadsheet on their website). The parts that I got are incredibly strong. I know this is an ABS-like filament, but Ive legitimately gotten better performance out of these than actual ABS from an FDM printer. That is most likely because printing orientation does not matter nearly as much, so the parts turn out mostly isotropic (equal strength in all directions). Ill describe some of the cases I used this for below. MY USE CASES: One of the parts was a stepper motor gear (28BYJ-48) that needed to deal with up to 0.1N*m of torque. I can tell after a lot of use, the section that meshes with the stepper pin has worn down from perfectly tight, to having maybe 3-5 degrees of slack, but its still perfectly usable. Many of the parts require linkages between them, so I printed 5mm pins. In my case, I had to reduce the size of the pins to about 95% to avoid clearance issues, but once they were in place the pins had very little friction while still providing very tight joints. Additionally, those pins could handle a surprising amount of shear force. I tested with a 5kg weight, so statically thats about 2.5MPa, but I also drop tested with that rig, so it could have easily reached 25MPa at one point. CLEANING: Specifically regarding this resin, you have to empty and clean your vat within 2 days if you dont plan on printing again. This stuff will separate into layers in about that time and becomes harder to clean off the vat. Also, water curing has yielded good results for me. If youve never resin printed before this part is for you, otherwise move along: Cleaning the prints is quite a hassle. They come out coated in liquid uncured resin which is, in the case of this resin, definitely a nasty skin irritant and potentially toxic if ingested (most resins are). Youll need LOTS of isopropyl or denatured alcohol, at least like 2 or 3 tubs or large tupperware containers, lots of paper towels, definitely more gloves than your printer comes with, and some way to get rid of the fumes. The alcohol is smelly enough, but this resin is definitely nasty stuff to be around. You have to be very careful not to get it on your skin or other surfaces (as it is quite drippy off the printer). With this resin, I got the best results by cleaning with alcohol from a spray bottle, then rinsing in water for 30 seconds, and then submerging in a cleaner tub of water before leaving in the sun (for 45 minutes) or shining with a bright UV light (1 minute or more, flipping the part with tweezers). I tend to keep one tupperware container for the alcohol cleaning process, which is very thick with uncured resin, one container for dirty rinse water, and one for clean water (and a bonus extra container to place all my contaminated tools and paper towels). I can usually run with this setup for several prints without changing out the liquids, which is nice because you CANNOT wash this stuff down the drain (unless you want even more micro-plastics in the ocean), and it absolutely has to be cured before you dispose of it. I typically save my 2-liter bottles and old mouthwash bottles, dump everything into those, and leave them out in the sun for a day before putting in the trash. CONCLUSION: If you can deal with the hassle of cleaning and PROPERLY discarding of the waste, then this resin produces results that you simply cannot get with other printing methods. Sure, FDM printing is less toxic and usually easier to get larger prints with, but the precision and speed of resin printing is unmatched. Usually that comes at the cost of poor physical proteries, but with this resin, you can get really small, precise parts with fantastic physical properties.