Siraya Tech Fast ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin 405nm UV-Curing Non-Brittle High Precision 3D Printing Liquid Standard Photopolymer Resin for LCD DLP 3D Printing(Grey, 1kg)

Anycubic photon mono 4k. 80% power, 3.0 seconds exposure. Started printing minis with anycubic basic gray resin. They were brittle and wouldnt survive a drop off the table it being shaken around in storage. This resin fixes that. Its easy to print, clean, and cure. Minis are still solid but have just enough flex to survive a fall of any height. I even threw one multiple times and it didnt break or lose a spear. Website states lower exposure times but that probably assuming youre 100% power. At 80% 3.0sec works great for me. 10/10 will buy again

I have been using the smoky black resin mixed with some Anycubic clear for about a year , it’s the best thing I have found , it makes the prints not nearly as brittle and I don’t have to expose them to a bunch of light . My mix ration is about 60% clear Anycubic to 40% of the siraya tech . It’s saves some money and just plain works for me . I mainly use mono x 4K and 6k printers but I don’t think it makes a difference that I have seen between printer makes/models . So happy I found this stuff , before using this my prints would break if I just looked at them wrong, much less knocking one over on a counter or shelf. Happy Printing !

This was the first resin I started using with my Creality resin printer and it worked well but I wanted to try some others. I tried both Longer and Anycubic resins that were also rigid-type resins. With those I had issues with these resins not reproducing detail as well as the Siraya resin and also with them being more brittle such that the parts shattered easily when trying to remove them from the build plate. I tried adjusting the initial layer settings on the Longer and Anycubic resins but then had issues with them coming detached from the build plate during printing. When they did stick, the resulting prints showed deformations in areas of fine detail. So, I went back to the Siraya resin and these problems went away and I started getting near perfect prints once again. One thing I did find is that the parts need to be cleaned in fresh alcohol so when I print multiple pieces in a single print, my procedure is to do an initial wash in an alcohol bath using a chip brush to remove the uncured surface resin. I place each part on a drying rack until all parts have received this initial treatment. Then because the second and subsequent parts had been washed in the alcohol that contains some of the washed off resin, I will do a second wash in a fresh batch of alcohol on all of the parts (except the first one cleaned). Then I use a hair dryer on the high setting to thoroughly dry all of the parts. Lastly, I cure all the parts in a UV chamber (cardboard box lined with foil) for 10-15 minutes on each side. I dont think over-curing in UV is an issue as I have accidently left a part in the chamber for about 12 hours without any ill effects. For settings, I am following the recommended settings shown in the spreadsheet from Sirayas website. I couldnt find any similar instructions for the Longer or Anycubic resins which is another reason that I dont care for these other manufacturers. One thing I would like to see is for Siraya to offer their resins in larger sizes such as gallon or 4L containers as long as this would not adversely affect shipping costs.

Ive been resin printing for many years, although with Formlabs gear, so my resin experiences have been good, if limited and expensive. I like the SirayaTech Fast ABS-like because it has a neutral grey color tone, although even thick parts will be fairly translucent. It does cure quickly allowing for faster print times than some other resins Ive used, but not by a huge margin.

Siraya Tech Fast Smokey Black resin has become a reliable and dependable choice for many users, thanks to its impressive array of features. Known for its durability and flexibility, this product offers clean and smooth results for a wide range of 3D printing applications. In addition, users appreciate the minimal odor, making it an excellent option for those with heightened sensitivity to strong smells. The resins robustness, combined with its slight flexibility, allows users to create intricate and complex designs without the fear of breakage. This makes it an ideal choice for both hobbyists and professionals alike. Furthermore, the Fast Smokey Black resin boasts a consistent performance, ensuring that users can expect the same level of quality from batch to batch. In conclusion, Siraya Tech Fast Smokey Black resin has proven itself to be a top contender in the 3D printing market. Its durability, flexibility, and minimal odor set it apart from other products in the field. As a result, it remains a go-to option for many satisfied customers who are looking for consistent quality and excellent results in their 3D printing endeavors.

Okay so now that I have gone through about 4-5 bottles I can say with confidence that this is the best budget-friendly resin on the market. I almost never have failed prints, the quality is always great and overall, I am just so pleased with this product. Using the settings I use on my Elegoo Mars 2 Pro I get perfect prints every time. I am not the best painter but you can see the detail in the tentacle of the second bust. I included my perfect print settings to help others who may struggle.

Ive used several bottles of Fast Grey resin and it works great. I bought a bottle of Creamy this time (after chatting with Siraya Tech customer support to make sure it would work with the same printers settings as Grey) because Creamy was several dollars cheaper. Big mistake. Almost every print is failing, even when I go back and add extra supports. Update: Someone on Discord told me to try adding exposure time for Creamy; I increased the exposure for the non-base layers by 0.4 seconds and its working now. Im not sure yet how I like the Creamy resin, but thought I should come change the bad review I gave it.

I was using the AnyCubic resins. The basic grey stuff, UV curable. Nothing Fancy. Even tried the black. I had a couple good prints and the rest all had some kind of error. Undefined tiny part here, unprinted hand or foot there, then I read to give Siraya Tech Fast a shot (for miniatures) and I havent had a single error since. Even reprinted the parts that failed before, with ZERO errors. Maybe I got old resin from AnyCubic? Maybe it was just a bad batch, I cant say honestly. But theres no need to figure it out, because Ill never use anything but Siraya Tech from now on. A little bit more in cost, but worth the extra few pennies. The grey is actually a lighter shade than the AnyCubic grey, and Im really enjoying using this stuff. And more importantly, the odor, is almost non-existent. AnyCubic resins will give you a headache, as soon as you open the bottle, and it has filled the room with the resin smell. This stuff, I can actually sit in the room while its printing and not even smell it. Which is a HUGE plus for those extra pennies. Using ChituBox on Photon Mono 4ks (I have 2) with all the default settings, and not a single issue.

I got the metal gray as it showed that it was darker than the navy gray, but mine is much lighter like the regular gray. Other than that, I’ve purchased quite a few colors of this specific resin and they’re all amazing quality, super high detail, and prints quick

Im in the middle of an engineering project (basically a custom RC plane), and needed some small, precise parts that still need to take decently significant loads. Of course print quality and resolution is a more a matter of what printer you have, but I can say this stuff printed fantastically on my Photon Mono S with the settings recommended by Siraya Tech (you can find a spreadsheet on their website). The parts that I got are incredibly strong. I know this is an ABS-like filament, but Ive legitimately gotten better performance out of these than actual ABS from an FDM printer. That is most likely because printing orientation does not matter nearly as much, so the parts turn out mostly isotropic (equal strength in all directions). Ill describe some of the cases I used this for below. MY USE CASES: One of the parts was a stepper motor gear (28BYJ-48) that needed to deal with up to 0.1N*m of torque. I can tell after a lot of use, the section that meshes with the stepper pin has worn down from perfectly tight, to having maybe 3-5 degrees of slack, but its still perfectly usable. Many of the parts require linkages between them, so I printed 5mm pins. In my case, I had to reduce the size of the pins to about 95% to avoid clearance issues, but once they were in place the pins had very little friction while still providing very tight joints. Additionally, those pins could handle a surprising amount of shear force. I tested with a 5kg weight, so statically thats about 2.5MPa, but I also drop tested with that rig, so it could have easily reached 25MPa at one point. CLEANING: Specifically regarding this resin, you have to empty and clean your vat within 2 days if you dont plan on printing again. This stuff will separate into layers in about that time and becomes harder to clean off the vat. Also, water curing has yielded good results for me. If youve never resin printed before this part is for you, otherwise move along: Cleaning the prints is quite a hassle. They come out coated in liquid uncured resin which is, in the case of this resin, definitely a nasty skin irritant and potentially toxic if ingested (most resins are). Youll need LOTS of isopropyl or denatured alcohol, at least like 2 or 3 tubs or large tupperware containers, lots of paper towels, definitely more gloves than your printer comes with, and some way to get rid of the fumes. The alcohol is smelly enough, but this resin is definitely nasty stuff to be around. You have to be very careful not to get it on your skin or other surfaces (as it is quite drippy off the printer). With this resin, I got the best results by cleaning with alcohol from a spray bottle, then rinsing in water for 30 seconds, and then submerging in a cleaner tub of water before leaving in the sun (for 45 minutes) or shining with a bright UV light (1 minute or more, flipping the part with tweezers). I tend to keep one tupperware container for the alcohol cleaning process, which is very thick with uncured resin, one container for dirty rinse water, and one for clean water (and a bonus extra container to place all my contaminated tools and paper towels). I can usually run with this setup for several prints without changing out the liquids, which is nice because you CANNOT wash this stuff down the drain (unless you want even more micro-plastics in the ocean), and it absolutely has to be cured before you dispose of it. I typically save my 2-liter bottles and old mouthwash bottles, dump everything into those, and leave them out in the sun for a day before putting in the trash. CONCLUSION: If you can deal with the hassle of cleaning and PROPERLY discarding of the waste, then this resin produces results that you simply cannot get with other printing methods. Sure, FDM printing is less toxic and usually easier to get larger prints with, but the precision and speed of resin printing is unmatched. Usually that comes at the cost of poor physical proteries, but with this resin, you can get really small, precise parts with fantastic physical properties.