Hopkins Towing Solutions 47185 Multi-Tow 4 Flat to 7 Blade and 4 Flat Adapter

Works great. I had to change my factory 7 pin plug because I upgraded to a heavy duty hitch vs the factory one that was too small and I lost my mounting bracket that was attached from factory. There was someone else who talked about how flimsy the mounting bracket is and I have to say that has not been my experience. Used a couple oversized self tapping 5/16 sheet metal screws to hold it down screwed it in and it works perfect. Install was simple and sweet, wired into my Factory 01 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins with butt connectors and heat shrink tubing, then taped it all up to protect any exposed wires. Will put up the wiring schematic for 2nd gen 98.5-02 rams if anyone else needs the info. Might be same for other Dodges, but I cant say. Center= purple/black tracer PL/BK back up lights 1 oclock= red/orange tracer RD/OR 12v Power 3 oclock= brown/red tracer BR/RD Right turn and brake 5 oclock= light blue LB Brake Controller 7 oclock= Black BK Ground , (mine has two black wires) 9 oclock= Green/red tracer GR/RD Left turn and brake 11 oclock= Black/orange tracer BK/OR Running lights.

I have purchased several of these little guys for the purpose of installing them on all of my tow-capable vehicles. They work great, and do include all of the necessary hardware and bracketry to mount onto a vehicle. I wish they came with heat shrink butt connectors, but my guess is that request would drive the price up. All of the contact surfaces were clean and corrosion free. The rear of the round connector appears to be water tight and durable. The copper wiring meets all of the AWG specs for the application it is designed for. I did use this in conjunction with a

Plugs into an existing 4-flat for lights if you have one in place, or that connector can be cut off and the wires individually spliced. The other three wires, for brakes, back-up and 12v have to be spliced. It comes with butt splices. You have to know what you’re doing. If you have a vehicle that has separate trailer light wiring and a connector underneath, like GM trucks and Suburbans, you would be much better off getting a connector made to connect to your specific brand of vehicle, and avoid splices altogether.

Bought a trailer with brakes about a year ago, but only had the 4pin trailer plug (no tow package) on my F150. Bought this piece, got it in 2 days with Amazon Prime, and installed it the same day I got it. Install took about 30 minutes (you could do it faster if youre familiar with the wiring), but overall pretty easy. 4pin plugs into the new 4pin (plug and play), splice blue wire for the actual brake controller, splice black for power, and white for ground (to metal of vehicle) -all not difficult (youtubed this video for help: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWq9Fwj1D-8). Now I have braking power on my trailer (also got Curt 51110 Venturer Brake Controller and adapter for simple installation: 5min), all for almost $80 and about 45min of install time. Took trailer for a short trip and everything works great, next is 1600miles, so Ill update if something craps out. Otherwise, consider everything great.

Easy to install, setup, wire up and use. Its nice to have one connection point and be able to plug pin what ever kind of trailer you might want to tow. It works great with my camper, snow mobile trailer, ATV trailer and my old beater gravel, dirt and construction material trailer. Installation: If you have a 4 wire harness already installed (like I did) you can just plug into that for all the lights, blinkers and brake lights, then simply add a break controller for trailer breaking and connect to the wiring on the multi tow adapter. It also has pass through power connections for your attached trailer- which is great for charging your camper batteries while driving down the road. We used this feature all summer while dry camping (camping with out plug in power) all over the midwest United States.

Quality

I used this to add a 7 way RV to style plug on my tractor, replacing the factory option 7 pin Ag plug. I like that the back of the connector is potted and the wires were a good length.

Installed very easily onto my existing 4-pole connector on my 1997 GMC pickup. Found a good lip under the bumper to bolt my bracket to, and made my own ground on the frame for the ground wire. Havent actually hooked it up yet, but a multi-meter shows 12V power in the correct spots when various vehicle functions occur: blinker, tails, brakes, etc.

The hardest part is found the wiring diagram for LR3 but it work, just follow booth diagrams and its gonna take around 25 min.

This adapter is mediocre quality at best. The mounting bracket is thin metal that will flex. You will need to hold the adapter when you plug in your trailer harness. The supplied screws were small (10-32 perhaps). Large enough to work, but nothing more. The rubber cover over the four flat wire connector is also thin, I dont expect it to last very long. The biggest problem was the part that was supposed to plug into my existing flat four wire connector, would not. My truck had a Ford connector already and I wanted this adapter so I would not have to do as much wiring. But I had to cut off the connectors and solder the wires together because the Hopkins plug was made in a way that didnt allow it to plug into the Ford plug. The contacts are bright stainless, brass/copper contacts would be more durable. The Hopkins adapter will get the job done, but it is a much lower quality product than the Ford factory connector on my other truck.